Log Cabin Chronicles
Going Downeast 2001
quartet
John, Jane, Art, Judy
(click to enlarge)

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On August 20, Jane and I, and my cousins Judy and Art Greaves, departed Fool's Hollow for two weeks in the Maritimes. These daily reports are the way things looked to me at the time.
Posted August 27 2001, 09:00 am

John Mahoney

Hot wings and cool music

BADDECK, NS | Everyone was mellow at the Yellow Cello here last night.

Scotsman Jim Brannigan's banjo and guitar were hot and his voice in fine form from "The Dutchman" through "The Fields of Athenry" to his own poignant "Hills of Margaree."

(Brannigan has two CDs. We bought six of the "Hills of Margaree." Check him out at mp3.com/jimbrannigan.)

He markets himself as a Celtic Folk Entertainer, and he certainly is. His current gig -- five nights a week at the Yellow Cello. He puts it this way:

"My real job is selling pizza and beer..."

And after more than 20 years on the folk scene, he knows how to do that.

"Hello. Where are you from? How long have you been here? Are you having a good time?"

Everyone is included, some gently needled, others jollied up. But it's all in good fun and all hands except a dour couple from Maine who prayed over their pasta got into the spirit of the evening.

Brannigan hails from the west of Scotland, near Glasgow, and his voice still has that raspy burr that's charming. He's been in Canada since '79. Three years ago he moved to Cape Breton, and now lives in Margaree. His song, "The Hills of Margaree", is about his love for a woman in Victoria, BC, and his failed attempt to convince her to move east with him. It's a lovely piece.

You can listen to some of his music on his website.

The food is okay at the Yellow Cello. I had hot chicken wings. Medium hot. Sheesh. Frigging sauce was incendiary, but I ate them anyway. I expect I shall pay dearly later today.

Earlier in the day we disembarked from the ferry at Caribou and drove to Pictou, where the first Scots settlers landed.

If you ever get to Pictou, be sure to visit The Stone House Cafe. The food is superior, the prices modest, the service excellent, and Sharon is ready to visit and quick to laugh.

I had wurst, sauerkraut, and the most delicious roasted potatoes (almost as good as Karina's). $9.95. And they keep an adequate supply of Irish on hand.

Art and Judy had seafood chowder they said was as good as the chowder made by Judy's grandmother, who came from Antigonish.

On the docket: The Alexander Graham Bell Museum and Fortress Louisbourg.

Oh, yes -- the locals call this place Buh-DECK. Just spit out out.

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