Jerry Buzzell

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JERRY BUZZELL

THE WATER TAXIS OF DUBAI

Abras (water taxis) are features of Dubai Creek. They are fun to watch, buzzing about like so many water beetles.

They are long, narrow wooden boats with a raised canopy for shade and a bench running down the middle for passengers.

The driver either sits in a well about two-thirds of the way back or in a chair on top of the passenger bench. He steers by means of ropes attached to the rudder.

There are abra stations along both the Bur Dubai and the Deira banks of Dubai Creek and these stations have separate areas for alighting and for departing. These areas just consist of steps extending from the quay into the water.

The loaded abra jostles with other abras as it noses into the alighting areas; the passengers walk off the bow and up the steps.

The boat then backs out and jostles with its fellows before nosing into a boarding area, where the opposite occurs. When full, it backs out, jostles with the boats wanting in, straightens up, and beetles away across the creek to its next stop.

The passengers are a microcosm of Dubai. Mostly men, mostly workers - Indians, Pakistanis, Pathans, Sri Lankans, Bangladeshis, many in shalwar kamiz and turban, some in slacks, shirt, and tie. Arabs in dishdashas. Western tourists in tourist gear. A few women, mostly Filipinas, Malaysians, Indonesians, or Western tourists.

These abras really are water taxis and they mirror the antics and customs of road taxis. Here it is quite usual to see taxis filled with men (mostly workers) who happen to be going in the same general direction and share the cab.

Some cabs drive set routes, picking up and putting down along the way. However, if you don't want to share a cab, you can flag one down and have it to yourself, as all women and the vast majority of Western expats do.

In the same way, you can hire an abra, as I was approached to do several times while watching them and as Linda and I did when we were in Dubai in late February. We paid 60 dhs to be driven up and down the creek, so I imagine that commuting passengers probably pay half or one dirham each.

Abras have been features of Dubai Creek for many years. In the 'old days' (before oil) they were propelled by oars. Photos of this are on display in the Sheikh Saeed House Museum.

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