The Gallivanting Gourmand
Greg Duncan
Greg Duncan
is a freelance writer based in the Montreal region. He is particularly keen about good food. In his day job, Greg is the executive director of the Quebec Community Newspapers Association.

His previous columns are archived HERE.

Posted 05.10.02


Ristorante Tevere - diners keep coming back

Ristorante Tevere on Dorval Avenue serves up good quality Italian food in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. As I learned, this eatery has been around since the early 70s and sees the return of dedicated customers time after time.

And why not? Prices are very reasonable and the service is efficient and friendly. Lots of parking around back, too.

They carry a full menu of Italian delights and as I entered I noticed couples enjoying pizzas delivered to the table. Must be good, I thought to myself, as the pizzas looked great. We were here to try other delights, though, and made mental notes to try the pizza another time.

The menu carries all that you would expect from an Italian eatery. A full array of pastas tempt with their ingredients. Rigatoni, tortellini, fettuccine all come with a variety of sauces and accompaniments. Traditional Pesto, Bolognese, Alfredo make the list.

Of note, Polpetine (meatballs) can be ordered along side. In my book, meatballs are always a good addition.

Appetizers such as fried fresh Mozzarella in tomato sauce as well as mussels marinara saddle up to an array of antipasti. My partner and I chose the first two and I was pleased with the mussels. A dozen or more little ones came bathed in a good sauce. Hints of basil made them great.

Diners can make selections of chicken, beef, and the all-important veal as well as a healthy selection of fishes and seafood. I was pleased to see tortellini in brodo, which is an old favorite of mine. Little tortellini in broth can't be better for whetting ones appetite. I opted for a house soup though that was excellent, although a little too filling. A beef and barley soup, which tasted like Mama's.

In fact, this choice was made as a compliment of the Table d'hôte. This method of dining goes along way to allowing hungry patrons to round out a full meal at one set price. We opted immediately to dine this way and at prices ranging from $15.99 to $22.99 you can't go wrong.

Choice of appetizer, soup or salad, main course and dessert with coffee or tea makes for excellent value. Each table is served a basket of tasty Focaccia to dip in a swirl of olive oil and Balsamic vinegar.

Go easy, or you won't have room for the rest as we discovered.

I chose a main dish of grilled sirloin in a brandy sauce while my partner chose cotelettes de Porc Pappagallo (a boneless stuffed pork chop with ham and cheese). I was tempted to try the mignonettes de veau and asked exactly what mignonettes were. On this night they were described as tender thin slices of veal.

Happily, our waitress was helpful enough to go to the kitchen and ask on our behalf. Although tempted by the veal (as always), my steak arrived done as promised and my partner and I shared bites. Her selection was excellent. We would have preferred that the large portions of cooked vegetables had been slightly less done but this was a minor nuisance as the meats and house potatoes made up for it. Al dente would have served the veggies better.

The salad was good though and is simply dressed with house vinaigrette. We sipped a half bottle of good red wine and I discovered that the wines here are easily affordable. Glad to see the mark-up is low.

An offer of dessert saw us enjoying a nice foamy cappuccino with our choice of crème caramel, which we shared. Sticky, sweet, and custardy, this paired well with the coffee. A wise choice.

We enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere and delighted in scanning a row of numbered lights above the kitchen doors that light up when an order is ready. We discovered that we were lucky enough to be #7 and kept watching between courses for our number to come up. A carry-over from days gone by, this added fun to our first experience at this restaurant.

Ristorante Tevere is located at 285 Dorval Avenue in Dorval. 631-5538.